Sunday, October 12, 2008

The West Side Market


Cleveland’s West Side Market is an absolute treasure, a survivor from the era when immense public marketplaces were necessary for every metropolis. Before the onslaught of suburban supermarkets that have become the dispiriting norm, city markets were the cosmopolitan supercenters of their day.

The West Side Market still stands as a wonderful multicultural, economically diverse, mixed creeds, and all-ages crossroads. It is one of my favorite places on the planet, filled with gorgeous produce, diverse comestibles, and multiple languages. The impressive brick building with the focal point clock tower is located where it has been since 1912, in the now revamped Ohio City area of Cleveland, across the Cuyahoga River from Jacobs Field (oh, alright, Progressive Field; that still doesn’t ring true. Jacobs Field quickly and affectionately became “The Jake.” So what are Indians fans left with now? “The Prog?”)

The origins of the market date to 1840 when, with remarkable foresight, Josiah Barber and Richard Lord gave the land to Ohio City with the stipulation that it always be used for a public market. They should have a statue erected to them, or at least their images carved in butter or cheese.

The Market has undergone considerable upgrading since I first knew it in 1984. Then you could still choose a live chicken, and the vegetable stands were exposed to the elements year ‘round. On site slaughtering is gone and the stands are now protected, and I do miss the kids who used to carry bags for a dollar, but the Market’s bounty and international ambience is still in full vigor. The 160 stalls are just as varied and some long-time favorites are still going strong.

Bookending the length of the interior market are two fabulous sandwich choices. One is Maha’s Falafil, next door to the fish market; the other is Frank’s Bratwurst, next door to the Mediterranean Imported Foods. Carnivores go to Frank’s, vegetarians to Maha’s; omnivores have the best of both worlds and bounce between the two. Frank’s is open early and brats are available for breakfast on the go.

Mediterranean Imported Foods is one shop I never miss. Manager Mark and owner Gus (the Greek) have kept me supplied with Petit Basque, feta, Stilton, and other brilliant cheeses for over two decades, along with olives, chocolates, coffees, teas, and a swath of irresistible European fare, including my daughter’s childhood favorite, Orangina.

Offering a variety of goods too numerous to list, including beautiful breads and baked goods, ethnic fare, whole bean coffees, fresh meats and Eastern European sausages, organic fruits and vegetables and much, much more, nowhere is the food pyramid, or America’s melting pot, represented better than at the Cleveland’s West Side Market.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Beef on ‘Weck at Schwabl’s


Beef on ‘Weck at Schwabl’s
789 Center Road
West Seneca, NY
(716) 674-9821‎
www.schwabl’s.com

Schwabl’s Beef on ‘Weck sandwich has joined my short list of culinary “eureka!” moments. A “Eureka!” is when, of all the possible combinations of foods, the perfect complement of taste, aroma, appearance, and satisfaction is achieved. These rare recipes stand the test of time. Ruth Wakefield’s creation of Toll House cookies was one, as was Mr. Cardini’s famous Caesar Salad, and there have certainly been more. Beef on ‘Weck may be one of the least known.

Exactly what is this sandwich triumph? And what the heck is “weck”? It’s short for “kummelweck” and refers to a unique version of a Kaiser roll. German in origin, “weck” means “bread” and “kummel” is “caraway.” Take a good quality Kaiser Roll, top it with a scant scattering of caraway seeds, encrust the top with coarse salt and you’ve created “kummelweck” (sometimes pronounced “wick”.) The bread is what distinguishes Beef on ‘Weck from a French Dip, and I can’t imagine it working with anything other than beef. The beef flavor is sturdy enough to balance the zing of salt and still be tasted. Milder chicken would be lost in the brine, ham or other cured meats would conflict in a salt war, as would anything barbecued or marinated. The tender, unfussy beef, coarse salt, well-textured bread, and subtle caraway provide just the right amalgam of flavors.

Take hand-carved top quality beef, cut to the diner’s preference of doneness, and pile it generously on the bottom half of the kummelweck. Dip the crystalline top in the savory beef juices and place on the mouth-watering beef. Cut in half and serve with horseradish, preferably out of those jars I covet. Serve with coleslaw or pickled beets, but above all, with Schwabl’s homemade German Potato Salad. A pint of local brew couldn’t hurt, either.

Several Western New York restaurants vie for the best Weck title, but I like Schwabl’s. They’ve been in business since 1837 (yep, that’s 171 years) so maybe it’s all the history, or it might be the sweet nostalgia of the friendly uniformed staff, or it could be that they make real Tom and Jerry’s. I look for time, care, and pride in all Savor New York products, and they are all abundant at Schwabl’s. Just watching the carver at the round of beef proves the point.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Saturday, September 6, 2008